The afternoon sun was starting to set as the market in central Ramallah filled up with shoppers prepping for the Muslim holiday of Eid.
But after six months of war in Gaza, the overall mood was pretty grim.
“It’s mixed with sadness about what happened in Gaza,” said Naila Ayesh, a retired resident of Ramallah who was there picking up groceries for iftar, the evening meal to break the daytime Ramadan fast.
“All our people are praying during Ramadan for Gaza people,” she said, “to stop this aggression. Stop these massacres. And one thing, for America to stop supporting this Israeli war. It’s a crime war. It’s genocide. It’s enough,” Ayesh said.
Negotiations for a ceasefire and another hostages-for-prisoners exchange are ongoing. But for many weeks now, the Biden administration has talked about “the day after” the war.
The White House is calling for a “revitalized” Palestinian Authority to take the lead in both the West Bank and Gaza Strip. But specific reforms remain unclear. Palestinian Authority President Mahmoud Abbas has been at the helm of the semi-autonomous government for almost two decades now.
Mohammed Darwish al-Zain, who runs a little falafel and hummus shop, said he took over the family business over 50 years ago — and he’s seen a lot during these decades.
“The situation is very bad,” he said through an interpreter.
In the old days, he said, he couldn’t keep up with demand. Nowadays, he’s often alone at his shop due to the tanking economy.
Since Oct. 7, when Hamas militants attacked southern Israel, and war began with Hamas in Gaza, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from going to their jobs inside Israel.
There’s also an ongoing dispute between the Palestinian Authority and Israel over tax revenues. For many Palestinians, they have reduced salaries or no income.
But it’s not just about the economy, Darwish al-Zain said.
“We are spiritually depressed. Everyone fears the worst. And nobody is spending money because they don’t know what the future holds,” Darwish al-Zain said.
“We are spiritually depressed. Everyone fears the worst. And nobody is spending money, because they don’t know what the future holds.”
Mohammed Darwish al-Zain, falafel shop owner, Ramallah, West Bank
Just over a week ago, Mohammed Mustafa was sworn in as the new prime minister in Ramallah. He’s part of a new technocratic government under Abbas, who remains deeply unpopular.
It’s hard for people here to feel hopeful with war and the threat of famine in the Gaza Strip.
Nour Odeh, an independent political analyst in Ramallah, said this war has changed everything.
“I don’t feel the same. I don’t look the same. I feel like I’m 100 years older. Like my soul has aged. I don’t even cook the same,” she said. Her portions tend to be smaller, she said, and is filled with guilt every time she wants to pamper her son or her family with a big meal.
Odeh spent several years living in Gaza and said news from there has changed the way she thinks about the future.
“I’m always accused by my friends of being hopelessly hopeful. I always find a ray of light at the end of the tunnel. I’m struggling now. I don’t see it. My worry has been reduced to — are my friends who are like family to me, alive. Are they eating?”
Beyond the humanitarian situation in Gaza, there are signs of an old internal rivalry being reignited.
News reports say Hamas recently attacked aid convoys in Gaza overseen by the Palestinian Authority. The Islamist militants of Hamas have long accused the Palestinian Authority — dominated by the more secular Fatah party — of collaborating with Israel.
“Well, you know quite well that we don’t see eye-to-eye with Hamas,” said Sabri Saidam, a senior official from Fatah at his office in Ramallah.
“We have had 17 years of major quarrels over and, I would say, a big fight over Gaza’s control because we felt that Hamas has to grow up, has to recognize previously signed agreements, and has to adhere to the wish of the international community of a two-state solution,” Saidam said.
Saidam thinks Hamas should become part of the Palestine Liberation Organization, which represents Palestinians from the West Bank and Gaza. It has a seat at the United Nations and has been negotiating with Israel for decades.
Saidam said Israel’s stated goal of eradicating Hamas is a fantasy.
“We don’t believe that military might will ever finish Hamas,” Saidam said. “At the end of the day, there are dangers that are facing Palestinian existence on the territory.”
“We don’t believe that military might will ever finish Hamas.”
Sabri Saidam, senior official, Fatah Party, Ramallah, West Bank
He pointed to Iran’s role in this conflict. Iran supports Hamas and other Palestinian militants.
“Iran is not representative of the Palestinian people. We should not be in any way subjugated to any regional players wanting to play with the Palestinian card.”
Saidam said he is not giving up on the goal of a two-state solution, but many Palestinians have.
Ultimately, he said, “We want the war to stop in order to save Palestinian lives and spare our people the pains of war. Whoever believes that Hamas will be eliminated by war should know that the war only increases the popularity of Hamas and that it does not lead us to any peace, but rather increases the pace of armed confrontation and bloodshed.”