Modern Gleaning Helps the Hungry
CURWOOD: Much of North America is now facing the cold, dark time of year. Close to Thanksgiving, farmers markets are piled high with squash for the celebration before they shut down. But that doesnt always mean that farmers fields are empty – in fact, a lot of perfectly good cold-hardy food often remains. Now thanks to the age-old but newly popular custom of gleaning, some of the fresh food that would otherwise go to waste is getting to some people who need it most. Last year, Living on Earths Bobby Bascomb went to check out what the gleaners do. Her report starts in farm fields west of Boston.
CRAWFORD: Thanks for coming out today guys, were at Waltham Fields Community Farm. So we are going to harvest some lettuce and maybe some collard greens as well.
Gleaning coordinator, Matt Crawford, demonstrates the best way to harvest lettuce. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
BASCOMB: Matt Crawford welcomes a group of 5 volunteer in the parking lot of a small farm, 10 miles west of Boston. Theyve come to glean–to collect the last of this years greens to donate to a food pantry produce that would otherwise go to waste.
[SFX WALKING ON GRAVEL]
BASCOMB: Matt leads the gleaners out to the long furrowed fields. Most of them are empty now, rows of soil waiting for the spring planting. But 4 rows at the end are covered in a long white gauzy sheet.
[SFX FABRIC PULLING SOUND]
BASCOMB: Matt pulls back the fabric to reveal perfect heads of red and green leaf lettuce. In the summer they would easily fetch two or three dollars apiece at the farmers market.
CRAWFORD: Im sure most of you have harvested lettuce before but Ill show you the best way to do it. Carefully grab it, pull it back, tilt away from the ground, from the earth. Cut it right at the base so leave any roots in ground. And then you prune off any dirty or dead looking leaves, anything thats yellow, and well put it right in the bag.
BELL: Theres stuff besides lettuce, were just going for the lettuce?
CRAWFORD: Just the lettuce, yeah. All this other stuff is weeds, which are edible but were not going to eat them.
BASCOMB: Volunteer Bruce Bell gets to work at the top of the row, crouching down to cut the lettuce with a small sharp knife.
Waltham Fields Community Farm. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
BELL: This is a beautiful one, a few dead leaves, some dirt but more or less a beautiful head of lettuce. Im a gardener also and I wish I could do things as good as this! Come out here and admire everything else thats so beautiful even at this late season. A few dead leaves here, throw them off, brush them off the dirt and in we go.
BASCOMB: (on tape) So, why do you do it? Why do you like coming out here?
BELL: I like the exercise, I like the fresh air. I like the connection it makes to other people that everyone should eat as well as I do and I think I eat pretty well and this is one way to help that along. You can see how much, I wouldnt call it waste, but so much in the food chain that could go to waste if we werent doing this.
PORTER: I think farmers have big hearts and dont want to see food go to waste.
BASCOMB: Zana Porter is one of the farmers at Waltham Fields Community Farm. Porter says by this time of year they no longer have a market for the produce left in the fields.
PORTER: At the end of the season we reach a point in the season where staff levels drop off weve met most of the demands of our CSA and if its been a good season we still have food in the field and that food needs to go somewhere. So we call on the gleaners to come and get the last of whats in the field so it doesnt go to waste.
BASCOMB: This community farm is run as a non-profit and giving back to the community is part of their mission. But Porter says there are also practical reasons for getting as much as possible out of the fields.
Gleaning Coordinator Matt Crawford and fellow gleaners remove lettuces and collard greens. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
PORTER: Sometimes its really important to clean out your fields. Its important to get anything that might carry disease through the winter out of your fields. Theres a lot of insects that over winter in certain crops. And if you leave that crop to rot there that pest can overwinter, its going to be there in the spring. I think theres probably some motivation in that as well.
BASCOMB: Gleaning is an ancient tradition. Its referred to in the Torah and the Bible. Leviticus chapter 19 instructs, When you reap the harvest of your land, do not reap to the very edges of your field or gather the gleanings of your harvest. Do not go over your vineyard a second time or pick up the grapes that have fallen. Leave them for the poor and the alien. Gleaning continued into the 19th century as a social safety net through much of Europe. Today there are gleaning organizations across much of Europe and the US. Duck Caldwell is Executive Director of the Boston Area Gleaners.
CALDWELL: This year were gonna recover over 70,000 pounds. That equals close to, when you convert it to 4 ounce servings 300,000 servings of fruit and vegetable.
BASCOMB: Caldwell says they pick at least 30 varieties of produceall kinds of greens, eggplant, peaches, carrots, apples, turnips, squash anything you might find in a farmers market can be gleaned when theres a good harvest.
CALDWELL: Were going to serve about 25 farms this year with our gleaning. There are well over 1000 in this area. So the potential is huge. Were doing a good job meeting the demand were getting currently from farmers, but demand side where people actually need this food, theres much more there so theres a lot of work to be done.
Farmers often have many crops that arent aesthetically perfect and likely wont fetch much at market, but are nutritionally worth harvesting. Gleaners help prevent food waste and get it into the hands of those that would appreciate it. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
BASCOMB: After three hours of work the volunteers picked 576 pounds of lettuce. They pack the harvest into banana boxes and load them into a van for delivery. Roughly half of whats gleaned goes to the non-profit, Food for Free, which distributes to 86 food banks from its headquarters in Cambridge. Sasha Purpura is the Executive Director.
PURPURA: Food for Free is an organization that essentially captures food that would otherwise go to waste, perfectly good healthy food, and then distributes it into the emergency food system where it can reach those in need.
BASCOMB: Food for Free staff makes daily rounds to local grocery stores to collect good food that would be thrown away at the end of the day but she says, what the gleaners supply is special.
PURPURA: By far the gleaners food is without question the absolute best food we can get. It’s the freshest, its local. The people who are receiving it love fresh vegetables as much as anybody else does.
BASCOMB: Purpura says it is relatively rare for food pantries to have access to fresh, local produce.
Farmer Zana Porter (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
PURPURA: A lot of food pantries can get food from food banks, but its typically shelf-stable canned stuff. Its hard for small food pantries or other things to carry produce because they dont have the storage for it. They need it on the day that the pantry is opening, its volunteer run. And because the gleaners and Food for Free can deliver day-of it allows them to offer more than canned sodium-enhanced stuff.
[WALKING SOUNDS]
BASCOMB: In the basement of the Food for Free office is a food pantry serving Cambridge. Sasha leads the way and introduces me to Aida Navarro, the food pantry manager.
PURPURA: Hi Aida.
AIDA: Hi sweetheart. Are you the radio girl?
BASCOMB: I am. What gave it away? (laughs)
BASCOMB: Aida has a kind face and an affectionate manner.
NAVARRO: I love the gleaners. They come and bring fresh vegetables from their garden. And I give them out here in the pantry to the community and everybody loves it.
BASCOMB: (on tape) Why do you think they love it?
NAVARRO: Because its real food from Mother Earth. From loving hands that planted it and its going to fall real good in the stomach. (laughs)
BASCOMB: Freddy, the pantrys food manager, stands amid boxes of produce and offers them to a small frail, elderly woman named Anne.
FREDDY: We have potatoes, onions, we have collard greens.
Volunteers collect 576 pounds of lettuce into plastic bags. (Bobby Bascomb)
ANNE: Greens?
FREDDY: You want collard greens?
ANNE: Yeah. And lettuce? You have lettuce?
FREDDY: We have a spring mix or we have this.
ANNE: Spring mix. Terrific!
FREDDY: Green pepper?
ANNE: Sure! Its very good things.
BASCOMB: Do you like the fresh produce, maam?
ANNE: Absolutely, its the best.
BASCOMB: Why is that?
ANNE: Well, its very expensive. Its something hard to get. So, I like it very much.
FREDDY: Eggplant?
ANNE: Sure
The Food for Free van delivers recovered food to food pantries across Cambridge. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
BASCOMB: What kind of things do you typically get this time of year?
ANNE: Anything green. Its beautiful. What they do is so important for us. I get things I couldnt afford. I get a lot of greens. It fills in spots I would otherwise neglect. And its a little gift. So it makes people happy.
BASCOMB: Visitors to the food pantry are young and old. Black, white, Hispanic, Asian and everything in between. Aida greats a familiar face.
AIDA: Come on baby! We know.
BASCOMB: Rudolph West is a tall 63 year old, missing most of his teeth, wearing an oversized trench coat. He says hes never heard of the gleaners but he loves the idea.
WEST: I think its a beautiful thing. Its charitable, someones taking the initiative to try to do something for others.
BASCOMB: West lives at the Y, and says he doesnt have access to cooking facilities so he cant use a lot of the vegetables, but hes touched by the thought of the gleaners collecting food for the less fortunate.
WEST: Its very helpful, and its good to be charitable, you know. Pay your tithes, thats my motto. Im a very religious person, which is a personal bond but I hold dearly in my heart and I shed tears over stuff like that. It shows how you can show piety like Jesus had. He was humble and submissive. Thats a good trait, a good characteristic, and I like that.
The food pantry in the basement of the Food for Free basement. (Photo: Bobby Bascomb)
BASCOMB: So a charitable tradition that dates back to before the time of Jesus is alive and well here in Boston thanks to generous farmers and volunteers.
For Living on Earth, Im Bobby Bascomb at the Food for Free pantry in Cambridge.
CURWOOD: The Boston Area Gleaners have grown since Bobby reported this story last November – theyre on track to double their annual harvest and collect 150,000 lbs from about 30 farms. They plan to deliver over 20,000 pounds of greens and roots and squash to pantries for Thanksgiving.